Gathered overskirts are a super fun addition to any cosplay/ outfit and add a little flare to an otherwise plain skirt (and lets be honest, they also accentuate a few areas pretty well).
Gathered overskirts are extremely simple and can be added to any type of skirt. Below is the basic pattern and steps.
Step 1. Measurements
- Length of the skirt (Blue Line) (how long do you want it to be from your waist line)
- Width of the skirt (measure from wherever you want the skirt to sit, whether that be touching in the front or sitting five inches apart)
Step 2. Determining Your Gather
The length of your gather determines how poofy the resulting skirt is. For instance a 1.5x gather is going to be a little poofy but almost not even there, whereas a 3x gather is going to be really poofy. It depends on the look you are going for in the end. If you are going for an exaggerated appearance then 3x is your got to, but if you want something simple and understated then aim for the 1.5x to 2x range.
The measurement works like this: if your skirt width is 20in and you want a 1.5x gather than your final measurement should be 30in (20 x 1.5).
Step 3. Drawing Your Pattern
I like to draw half of my pattern and then just cut on the fold line, but it really depends on your preference.
Draw a line the length of your skirt plus your hem allowance and then draw a perpendicular line from the top that is half of your skirt width plus your seam allowance. Then draw an arc between the ends of these two lines. Now you have your pattern!
Remember always test your patterns in muslin first. It will save you time and frustration. Muslin is cheap and comes in a wide width, perfect for pattern drafting.
Step 4. Putting It Together
Once you have cut out your fabric, sew two gather stitches along the top (the pink line in the above pattern). Now hem your overskirt. I have a preference for hemming with lace but a simple rolled hem can work too.
Gather the skirt to your desired length and sew it into whatever piece you are adding it to!
Some Additional Tips!
Overskirts can be layered together and sewn into a waistband to create a bustle.
Play around with fabrics and patterns! A patterned overskirt over a plain skirt gives an outfit a nice flair.
As always, if you have any questions you can reach out to me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
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